Place a strainer over a pitcher of about 3 cup capacity; set aside near stovetop. Have ready 5 to 6 ramekins or wineglasses of about 2/3 cup capacity; set aside near stovetop. In heavy-bottomed, nonreactive, 1-1/2 to 2 quart pot, combine sugar, cocoa powder, cornstarch, and salt. With whisk or slotted spoon, blend thoroughly, pressing out any lumps.
In small bowl, combine egg yolks with several tablespoons of milk (no need to measure--just use a small amount). With fork, beat well to combine. Set aside yolk mixture and remaining milk.
In small heatproof bowl, combine chopped chocolates. In small saucepan over low heat, heat cream until very hot, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat; pour about one-third of hot cream into chocolates. Let stand a minute or two, then whisk or stir until smooth. If necessary, place over simmering water on low heat (water should not touch bottom of bowl); stir often just until melted. Remove from heat and hot water. Gradually stir or whisk remaining cream into this mixture, which will become rather thin.
Off heat, add yolk mixture to sugar-cornstarch mixture in pot. Stir gently to combine. Add chocolate-cream mixture, which should still be warm; stir gently to blend in partially. With rubber spatula, scrape bottom and sides of pot well; press out any visible cocoa lumps.
In small saucepan, heat remaining milk over low heat, stirring occasionally, until very hot. Stirring constantly but gently, gradually add hot milk to mixture in pot. Scrape pot bottom and sides with rubber spatula again, then set over medium heat. Stir constantly and slowly until mixture boils. At first, there will be a layer of foam on top of the pudding. Shortly before the mixture boils, it will become lumpy--that's OK. Just keep stirring constantly and gently. When pudding thickens and foam begins to incorporate into it, stop stirring momentarily to check for boiling. Once mixture boils, boil and stir for 90 seconds (1-1/2 minutes), reducing heat if necessary to keep pudding at a low boil.
After 90 seconds, remove from heat. Immediately add butter bits and vanilla. Let stand a moment or two, then gently blend in butter and vanilla only until incorporated. Quickly pour into strainer set above pitcher.
Once pudding is strained, immediately divide evenly among ramekins or wineglasses, leaving some headroom on each for whipped cream at serving time. Cool slightly, then chill until set, at least 2 hours. Serve with lightly sweetened whipped cream.
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